All of my patterns are available in English and many are also offered in German. At this time, no other language versions are available. Please check the pattern description in the shop to see which languages are included.

I try to keep my patterns beginner-friendly, but sometimes the abbreviations can cause confusion. Here’s a quick guide to the ones that might be tricky:

• () –* repeat the instruction inside the brackets once all around.

• () 2-times – repeat the instruction inside the brackets two times.

• () 3-times – repeat the instruction inside the brackets three times.

• ch2 skip1 – make a chain of 2, skip the next stitch. This creates a small hole where the wire for legs or body will go through later.

To make this clearer, here’s an example from my patterns:

Round 4: (sc, inc), 3 sc, (sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (24)
Without compression: sc, inc, 3 sc, sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 3 sc, sc, inc, sc, inc (24 sts)
Counting helper: 1 + 2 + 3 + 1 + 2 + 1 + 2 + 1 + 2 + 3 + 1 + 2 + 1 + 2 = 24

Round 5: (2 sc, inc), 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) 2-times (30)
Without compression: 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (30 sts)
Counting helper: 2 + 2 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 = 30

👉 So, for example, (3 sc, inc) 3-times means: 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc.

If there’s no number after the brackets, then it’s just a hint to show the structure of the pattern—you only crochet the instruction once.

Yes, using thicker yarn and/or a larger crochet hook will make the finished figure larger. However, I recommend this only for experienced crocheters.

With thicker yarn, the rounds may twist more than expected. If this happens, you can add one or more extra single crochet stitches at certain points in the pattern to help realign the beginning of the round. The exact placement and number of these extra stitches will depend on your chosen yarn and hook size, so you’ll need to compare your work carefully with the step-by-step pictures in the pattern to adjust as needed.

Please note: I can’t provide exact instructions for these adjustments, nor can I estimate how much thicker yarn will be required, since my designs are not created with that yarn in mind.

I don’t sell finished items—only the crochet patterns so you can make the figures yourself. I’m sorry if that’s not the answer you were hoping for, but I promise the making part is half the fun! 💕

Yes! You are welcome to sell any items you make personally from my patterns.
My copyright terms are simple:

• Each person who makes items for sale must have their own copy of the pattern.

• Items for sale must include credit in the description: “Designed by IlDikko” and a link to my website www.ildikko.com

I recommend using single-core copper electrical wire with PVC coating, about 2.5 mm in diameter. It’s easy to find in hardware stores, sturdy enough to support the figure, and the PVC coating helps protect the wire and resist corrosion.

In general, you can use any wire that is flexible but strong enough to hold the shape of your amigurumi. Just make sure it isn’t too soft—otherwise, the figure may not stand or keep its pose.

Catania yarn from Schachenmayr has become a little tricky to find lately. I used it for the designs because it’s 100% cotton with a lovely texture and I still recommend it when possible.

If you can’t get it in a store, you can often find it on Etsy—just search for “Catania yarn” and several shops usually have it in stock.

If that’s not an option, look for another 100% cotton yarn rather than an acrylic substitute. Here are the main details of Catania to help you choose:

• Fiber: 100% cotton

• Weight: Sport / 5 ply / Fine (Weight 2)

• Yardage: 125 m per 50 g ball

For finding alternatives, the website YarnSub

Eyelash yarns have become more difficult to find these days. The general term for this type of yarn is “fun fur”, and there are several similar options from other brands.

On Etsy, I found a couple of eyelash yarns that could work well as substitutes:

• Samba by YarnArt

• Ice Eyelash Yarn

I think either of these would be a great replacement.

You might also find YarnSub helpful for finding other suitable alternatives.

I completely understand—fuzzy yarn can be tricky at first, and you’re definitely not alone!

Here are a few tips that help:

• Keep the main “hair” of the yarn toward the back side of your work; it usually falls there naturally and makes the stitches easier to see.

• Once your piece is finished, gently comb it out to fluff it up and reveal the full texture.

It just takes a little practice. After a while, you’ll get into a rhythm and the results will look fantastic. Don’t give up—you’ll be a fuzzy yarn pro in no time! 💕